Another week, another Mediterranean island. With a free week to fill between Rome and Germany, we literally looked at a map to determine which destination was worthy of our time and effort to get there for 8 nights. Corsica was in the right area, the temperature still looked ok for early September, and France is always a good idea, so we went ahead and booked the flight out of Corsica as it was cheap, and thought we would figure out the rest later.
Turns out, it ain’t so easy to get to and from Corsica if you are departing from Rome and trying to get to south west Germany for a planned family rendezvous! It required more logistical manoeuvres than we were really up for, but we eventually figured it out with a few trains, buses, a ferry and a rental car and in between the journies to and from the island, got a good glimpse of Corsica.
First impressions are that it is not a party island, which was exactly what we needed. The opportunities for hiking and outdoor activities are vast, but we chose the gentler options of sleeping, beach lazing, and embracing the French cuisine as we made our way from the north to the south along the dramatic coastline. The dominant tourist group on the island is most certainly French; it’s a relaxed domestic island holiday not far from the mainland and for the benefit of others intending to head here, it appears to be quite easy and good value to fly in and out from mainland France.
Corsica is the fourth largest island in the Med (preceeded by Sicily, Sardinia and Crete) and the mountain ranges and sheer cliffs lining the coast were stunning. Having a car for the week was essential to explore the lovely villages and beaches, and the drive along the north west coast from Calvi in the north to the capital Ajaccio is one of those regularly listed as a “world’s best drive”. It’s practically mandatory to pull over on the side of a very narrow cliffside road along with everyone else who has done the same, to get out of the car and stare in awe of the rugged landscape.
After a week on the island we can say our favourite area was in the south, but we started in the north in Calvi which was a small and quiet seaside town complete with marina and a small citadel perched up high and accessible by foot from the town centre. We stayed in a lovely hotel that was a converted abbey, and there was a good variety of restaurants and cafes on offer, although not a whole lot of atmosphere at the time we were there. Being first week of September the crowds of high summer had definitely moved on, and the locals were no doubt relishing having their town back.
En route to the south we passed through the quaint village of Porto, a perfect half way point along the north-west coastal drive to Ajaccio and ideal for a lunch and ice cream stop, followed by a swim. A few nights here would have been ideal as it is also the perfect access point via boat for the Scandola Nature Reserve, a stretch of the coastline that showcases the magnificent red cliffs of the north west. We also made a short stop in Ajaccio which is really just a city, a few pretty streets and a lovely fresh produce market in the town square, but not necessarily a stop that is a must-see.
Bonifacio in the south however is spectacular, and definitely the jewel in the Corsican crown. A fortified town perched high on the cliff tops, from the water you can see the buildings seemingly clinging to the edge of the coast. The beautiful and expensive marina area is lined by restaurants and bars, and the run of super yachts moored here indicates the clientele that the town attracts. As the sun went down the place really came to life with a relaxed resort vibe, musicians in the street and buzzing bars.
A well managed boat tour operation from the port gets you out to the Lavezzi Islands, an archipelago within a marine reserve just a short trip from the harbour, perfect for white sand lazing and snorkelling. Well worth the €35 return fare. Bonifacio was definitely a highlight location in Corsica, also a popular day trip from the neighbouring island of Sardinia, and worth an early arrival in town to snare a parking spot and a boat ticket out to the islands.
Just 45 minutes north of Bonifacio is Porto Vecchio, a bustling little town of boutiques, cafes, bars and restaurants and a more economical option for accommodation than Bonifacio which is still within easy access. Porto Vecchio also offers better proximity to sandy beaches and beach clubs, which although quiet in early September were still open. We had 3 days in Porto Vecchio and loved the vibe of the town, the variety and quality of the restaurants, and the beautiful beaches here.
Overall the southern end of the island was our favourite part of Corsica. It is a lovely destination, and a visit in a slightly cooler month would have allowed more chance of getting up into the mountains for some of the walks that draw adventurers from near and far. Ultimately we would likely still recommend Mallorca over Corsica as a summer island destination, but Corsica was certainly not a disappointment at all and probably needed a bit more time for us to fully appreciate it. But 8 days was all we had, and a flight to Lyon on the mainland gave us a chance to have a quick few hours in the old town of the city before we made our way across a few Swiss borders to get to some special people in Germany.
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