I’ll start by confirming that Malta is as naturally stunning as expected, boasting a coastline equal to any other we have seen around the Mediterranean Sea area, and offering the best pastizzi on the planet. After years of having this little island on our radar we were ready for the Maltese experience described by family, friends and colleagues who are connected to it in some way.
A quick flight from Naples delivered us to the island, and as we planned our week at the airport we realised we would be busy. There is so much to do in Malta – historical sites to explore, beautiful cities and villages to wander through and of course the beaches and swimming holes to be found on the 3 islands that make up Malta, with Comino and Gozo both accessible by ferry and smaller boats. Expectations were high as we rolled out of the airport, and into some of the most hectic traffic we have ever come across….
With the reference to ‘madness’, there were a few unexpected surprises for us in Malta – traffic for one is insane (we were there in July), and everywhere you go takes much longer than you think it will and the drivers are actually crazy! We were stunned by the amount of cars on the road, like sitting in Sydney gridlock on what we had naively thought was a country and island too small to have traffic chaos.
Quietly congratulating ourselves for ditching the hire car idea and relying on the bus network, we arrived in the resort area of St Julian’s Bay to the west of Valletta and were surprised again by the scene in front of us. Western fast food chains, casinos, Irish pubs and fish & chip shops, British department store outlets and way too many high rise apartment blocks greeted us in what we had expected to be a relaxed resort location. The rest of Europe was clearly in on the Maltese secret, and had arrived in droves driving an insane appetite for quickly constructed and uninspiring property – both to rent for the summer and to buy. It was not what we had expected to find here, and with the overcrowding and infrastructure that is lagging behind, it was painfully obvious that waste management is a problem here. The rubbish everywhere was so heartbreaking, and sadly St Paul’s Bay further along the coast to the north west was the same.
Adjusting our expectations, we spent a day exploring the area and discovered that there are still little resort area pockets in and around St Julian’s Bay that were a little less crowded and more our style, and in our efforts to avoid Costa coffee and western style restaurants we did find local cafes and restaurants that gave us the Maltese experience we had come for. For others staying in the area we would suggest to avoid the central area of St Julian’s and aim for the outskirts of the area between the Bay and Valletta, which was a lovely ferry ride from Sliema.
The approach to Valletta from the water was spectacular, and fulfilled all the expectations of a European capital city. Currently the European capital of culture for 2018, it was all narrow laneways, beautiful town squares, coffee and pastry stops, and lovingly restored architecture. The famous St John’s Co-Cathedral was definitely worth the 10€ entry fee to view the 16th century baroque interiors, and the city has many other architectural and historical sites to explore, laneway wine bars and restaurants to experience. It was a highlight of our week and definitely a location we could have spent a few nights in.
It wasn’t just Valletta that captured our imagination, all of the towns of Malta were so picturesque and delivered the Maltese experience we expected with generous hospitality and stunning architecture. This little speck in the ocean between southern Italy, and northern Africa boasts an eclectic mix of european and middle eastern architecture styles due to the many cultures that have inhabited the island over the centuries.
In an easy day trip away from the coast we visited the town of Mosta with it’s super large church boasting the 3rd largest church dome in the world, and a unique style that was almost mosque-like. A short drive from Mosta on our rented quad bike took us to the walled city of Mdina perched on a hill top, with views across most of the island on a clear day. Mdina is referred to as the ‘silent city’ as there are limited cars within the walls, creating a beautiful little haven away from the chaos of the roads. Victoria on the island of Gozo was also worth the visit, with a citadel and church sitting above the little city, and some stunning architecture as we drove around the island.
Of course this being Malta and peak-summer, we went to a lot of beaches too. Unlike other european coastlines, you can find sand beaches on Malta, as well as the more common rocky/stone beaches, and then the cliffside swimming holes along the coast best accessed by boat. We tried a few and generally found that the swimming holes off the coast line were the cleanest and most enjoyable, like the stunning St Peter’s Pool accessible by boat from the cute fishing village of Marsaxlokk. Worth a trip here for the swimming and the seafood feast for lunch!
Some of the more crowded beaches in the resort bays of St Julian’s and St Paul’s, and popular Golden Bay on the west coast were suffering from too many people, and the water and beach areas were not clean which was so disappointing, not only because we are Aussies and our beaches are the best in the world (not even a biased statement) but because many tourists are oblivious to the damage they are doing to the beautiful places they have come to experience.
The favourite swimming spot by a long shot was Malta’s famed Blue Lagoon, off the coast of Comino, the small island between Malta and Gozo. Accessible by boats, and boasting only one accommodation option on the island, this little piece of heaven was remote and clean and most certainly a highlight for us. The colours in the lagoon were unbelievable and if we had another day on the island, this spot would have had a return visit for sure.
Despite our concerns/disappointment with the over zealous property development in a few small pockets and the challenges with sustainability, we did enjoy our Maltese adventures. The people are warm, the euros stretch further than traditional western european countries, and the pastizzi are cheap and excellent! The food was consistently good everywhere, coffee was on average 1.30€ and swimming in the natural coves along the coastlines was amazing. There is a lot to like here, and I expect a visit in the shoulder season rather than peak summer would alleviate some of the traffic and crowds.
Hopefully the years ahead for Malta are carefully planned with an eye on retaining the cultural delights that make the Maltese and travellers alike sigh and smile at just the thought of this little island. It’s been a humbling experience – a view of the damage our society can inflict on our environment, and a reminder that as tourists we have a responsibility to support local communitites to protect their natural environment. It’s an ongoing battle, and I truly hope Malta will fight the good fight.
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Nice blog and beautiful picture. I enjoy Malta as well but personally I prefer Gozo as it is much more smaller and less crowded than Malta island.
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